Monday, April 26, 2010
The flywheel nut should be tightened to 200 ft lbs, and can take some shifting! The flywheel has to be locked before the nut can be undone, and this is best achieved by using a steel bar of at least four feet in length with two holes drilled to correspond with clutch bolt holes, to which the bar is bolted. Using a 36 mm, three-quarter inch drive hexagonal socket and the best leverage you can obtain, slacken the nut. It may prove necessary to have an assistant or two to hold the engine still while force is applied: a better method is to arrange the two levers so that you can push them together. If one lever end rests firmly on the workshop floor, the second can be pressed downwards without any of the force being applied moving the engine. It is still advisable to have an assistant to hold the engine still.
.41 A. rs
yiIf this fails, it may be as well to take the engine to a garage and ask a mechanic to start the nut – a powerful air impact driver can sometimes work.
Mark one dowel peg and the adjacent area of the flywheel with a dab of paint so that the latter can be replaced in the same relative position. then reAve the flywheel. A little help from a rubber mallet may prove necessary.
Clean then remove the rocker box covers by prising off their spring clips. Clean away all traces of the gaskets (which. like all other gaskets, must be renewed). Undo. as evenly as possible, the two rocker gear retaining bolts then lift the rocker gear clear and mark it in some way to show which cylinder it corresponds to. From now on, all components must be marked or stored in such a way that they can be replaced in the correct location. Remove and mark the pushrods, or (alternatively) place them in a piece of stiff cardboard with suitable holes and make your marks on this.
ASlacken then remove the cylinder head nuts in the sequence shown, turning each nut a fraction before progressing to the next, then repeating the process until all arc loose and can be removed. Lift the cylinder head from the cylinders, giving the underside of the head a tap or three with a rawhide mallet if necessary (it usually is). Never use any kind of lever in between the head and the cylinders, because this would ruin the seal between them. As the head comes free, remove the pushrod tubes and mark them.
Pull each cylinder in turn away from the crankcase until the piston pin and gudgeon clip can be seen. Remove the gudgeon clip, gently drift the pin until it is free of the connecting rod small end, then remove the cylinder and piston complete. You can remove the cylinder first and then the piston if you wish, but removing both together lessens the chances of cylinders and pistons becoming mixed up!
Remove the oil pump cover plate. The oil pump is gripped between the two crankcase halves and its removal requires a special tool or, alternatively, can take place when the crankcase halves are split. Remove the six nuts which secure the oil strainer plate, then remove the oil strainer.
Remove — where applicable — the generator pedestal/oil filler assembly. Remove the oil pressure switch. The crankcase may now be split. Ideally, the crankcase assembly will be held in a special mount of the type already described and photographed: if not. support it so that it leans to the left (viewed from the crank pulley end).
Remove the nuts and washers from the join seam plus, on 1200 cc engines, the two bolts at the flywheel end. There are six large nuts on the right hand side of the casing. Remove these and, if no fastenings remain, the crankcase halves should begin to part when lightly tapped with a rubber mallet. Remove the cam followers (tappets) and mark them.
The crankshaft and camshaft simply lift out of the crankcase half. Remove the distributor drive shaft and the fuel pump push rod assembly.
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